DIY: How to Replace Navigation LCD on Honda GL1800 Goldwing

Click for Link to PDF with Photos

Click here to purchase a replacement LCD

Important Note: Reason for install is that the original Honda LCD screen had multiple dead pixels the navigation system was in perfect working order. This LCD screen DOES NOT come with the PC board and it IS a 100% plug and play same as OEM product. I do not know which years this will work with but upgraded systems like any computer will be in the Nav unit in trunk and the PC board probably not the LCD screen itself.

Installation:

I have started with the front cover with system speakers already removed as there are already very good instructions on how to do that on GL1800 Riders forums, I also will not go into detail on every screw as they obvious and very visible. Please note you will have to remove the PC board from the old unit it is very easy but requires gentle touch. BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALL DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.

 

  1. New LCD as received.

  Honda Goldwing GL1800 glass

  1. Original Unit being replaced, note dead pixels.

 Honda Goldwing Display Bad Pixels

  1. Dash already removed. (Search forum-dash removal) note stuff rags in openings to catch dropped hardware.

 

Remove (4) hx screws that hold cluster

 

  1. Remove (3) wire harnesses (Tach, Speedometer, Nav) pull the rubber boot back, same for all three, and on top center of the plug press release catch down and pull out plug. Takes very little pressure to press tab or pull out plug… be patient as the cluster does not move very far and room is limited. Also you will need to gently pull down on the unit so the rear support can slide out of the bracket (see highlighted screw in #5 below). Removing and reattaching the wiring plugs may be the hardest part of the install.

 

  1. The disassemble and install now can be done at kitchen table with cup of coffee, don’t spill the coffee on the electronics. Remove all screws that attach the clear cover turn unit over and remove all screws EXCEPT the ones that hold the heatsink. Carefully separate cases and unplug circuit board in #6.

 

 

REAR SUPPORT SCREW

Heatsink need not be removed

  1. Unplug the LCD from the Tach/Speedometer PC board, remove ground strap, set the cluster aside.

Remove plug Ground

Set this unit aside

  1. Gently lift up on the black tabs of the LCD screen frame while slightly pulling the frame up. You need not bend the tabs just lift up and work your way all around the case it will start to separate. Remove frame and set aside.

 

  1. Ok time to remove PC board from LCD take your time tweezers work great on these plugs.

 

To remove the ribbon cable use tweezer edge to gently push the edge of the black bar it will slide out but not come off and will release the ribbon cable. Don’t touch the contacts on the cable.

 

If you do you could wipe them off with soft micro cloth and a lense cleaner or alcohol. I did not need to clean the cable.

Unwrap wire Unplug connector

Now unscrew the circuit board and unplug last plug the orange and black wire. Remove circuit board set as

  1. Unscrew the final 4 screws that hold the LCD into the white frame, remove LCD screen.

Old New

Peel off heatsink insulators and put on the new LCD screen approximately same locations.

 

  1. Now reassemble in the reverse of how we took it apart, the new unit is plug and play everything will align. Note on the back of the units there are two screws marked H-POS and VCO these screws will align the horizontal and vertical position of the image on the screen. Mine is off very slightly 1/16 inch in the horizontal only and if I ever go under the front fairing again I may adjust it. I think you could just unscrew the heatsink and get to these screws without removing the dash again. The unit will go together very easily nothing should be force fit. Good luck you will love the results.

 

 

 

NEW UNIT AS FIRST POWERED UP

Note: The unit powered right up with same screen and information as always. You will still have all the same settings and mileage all that information is in the actual Nav unit in the trunk. Again this unit was changed out because of dead pixels only.Start to finish this took me 2-1/2 hours that included a couple short ten minute breaks. I have now had the unit installed a couple of weeks with daily trips and it looks and works like new.