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2003-2008 Jaguar S-Type Climate Control Module Repair Guide

INTRODUCTION

If your 2003–2008 Jaguar S-Type (X200) blows hot air on one side and cold on the other, or the temperature no longer follows the settings on the dash, the cause is almost always a two-part failure: the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) under the hood has failed, and in doing so it has burned a circuit-board trace inside the Climate Control Module in the center stack.

The module has no protection against a shorted valve, so a failing DCCV can overheat the trace that drives it. Replacing only the valve leaves you with a damaged module, and replacing only the module lets the bad valve burn out the new one. This guide shows how to remove the module, find the damaged trace and bridge it with a jumper wire, a repair that costs a few dollars in parts compared with a replacement module.

Applies to facelift (2003–2008) S-Type models with the climate controls below the radio. Earlier 1999–2002 cars use a different module.

Before you start: disconnect the battery negative terminal and wait a few minutes before unplugging any connectors in the center stack. Work slowly around the trim clips. If you are not comfortable soldering on a circuit board, our professional repair service can do it for you.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Common symptoms of a DCCV / climate control module failure:

  1. Driver and passenger sides blow different temperatures
  2. Constant hot air in summer, or no heat in winter, on one or both sides
  3. Temperature settings have little or no effect
  4. The problem continues after a new DCCV has been fitted

Testing the Jaguar S-Type dual coolant control valve: both plungers should cycle with the key on

Check the DCCV first. With the coolant hoses removed from the valve, turn the key to the ON position and look into the ports. The plungers on both sides should move. If only one side moves, the module is driving that side but not the other, which points to a damaged trace on the module board. Install a new DCCV before reinstalling the repaired module.

PREREQUISITES

Tools

  • Torx bit set (center console screws)
  • Micro Torx bits for the circuit board screws (or a rotary tool and small flat screwdriver)
  • 8 mm socket and ratchet
  • Plastic trim / pry tools
  • Soldering iron, 30–40 W with a fine tip
  • Rosin-core electronics solder and flux
  • Digital multimeter with continuity or ohms setting
  • Isopropyl alcohol and a small brush
  • Magnifier or loupe (recommended)

Parts

  • Thin insulated wire (30 AWG wire-wrap or kynar wire works well)
  • New Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV), if not already replaced

REMOVAL / DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

  1. Remove the shifter trim. Open the ashtray, grip the trim through the opening and lift straight up, keeping both sides even so the clips release together.

Step 1: open the ashtray and lift off the shifter trim

  1. Empty the console. Open the center console lid, then pull out the cup holder insert and the rubber liner / catch tray beneath it.

Step 2: remove the cup holder insert and liner tray

  1. Remove the two Torx screws in the floor of the storage bin.

Step 3: remove the two Torx screws in the console storage bin

  1. Lift out the storage bin and unplug the 12 V power outlet connector from underneath it.

Step 4: lift out the storage bin and unplug the power outlet

  1. Release the console trim at the front. Lift the front end of the trim first to pop the forward clips. A plastic pry tool prevents marks on the wood.

Step 5: lift the console trim at the front end

  1. Pull the trim rearward on the left and right sides, working evenly until it comes free.

Step 6: pull the console trim back on each side

  1. Remove the four bolts (8 mm) at the corners of the radio and climate control assembly.

Step 7: remove the four bolts holding the radio and climate control assembly

  1. Ease the assembly out and disconnect every harness going to the radio, switches, sensors and climate module. Upper plugs release with a latch; the lower plugs squeeze and pull. Note or photograph their positions.

Step 8: disconnect the wiring harnesses from the rear of the assembly

  1. Remove the four Torx screws that hold the climate control module to the assembly. Support the module as the last screw comes out.

Step 9: remove the four Torx screws securing the climate control module

  1. Pry off the sensor clipped to the back of the module, using a plastic tool so the clips do not crack.

Step 10: pry the sensor off the back of the climate control module

  1. Separate the rear cover from the front half by pressing in the two tabs.

Step 11: press both tabs and separate the rear cover

  1. Unplug the connector from the rear circuit board by lifting it straight off the header pins.

Step 12: unplug the connector from the rear circuit board

  1. Remove the four micro Torx screws and lift the circuit board out of the housing. If you don't have a bit small enough, cut a slot in each head with a rotary tool and use a small flat screwdriver; blow away any metal dust before continuing.

Step 13: remove the four micro Torx screws and lift out the circuit board

REPAIR PROCEDURE

  1. Locate the damaged trace. Inspect the area around the harness connector under good light. A failed trace is darkened, blistered, lifted or visibly broken. Some boards have two damaged traces, one for each side of the valve.

Step 14: locate the burnt trace near the harness connector

  1. Confirm the break with a multimeter. Set the meter to continuity or ohms. Touch one probe to the connector pin and the other to the pad where the trace ends. A good trace reads close to 0 Ω (or beeps); an open trace reads OL. Check the neighboring traces too.

Step 15: confirm the open trace with a multimeter

  1. Bridge the trace with a jumper wire. Scrape away any loose burnt material and clean the area with isopropyl alcohol. Strip a short length of thin insulated wire, hook it in a “J” around the connector pin and solder it in place. Route the wire along the path of the old trace and solder the other end into the pad or via where the trace ends.

Step 16: bridge the damaged trace with a fine jumper wire

Soldering tips: let the iron get fully hot, then heat the joint and feed solder into the joint rather than onto the iron tip. Use only as much solder as it takes to flow around the wire. Don't hold the iron on the board longer than a few seconds at a time; overheating can lift nearby pads and traces. Conductive trace-repair pens are not recommended here: this circuit carries the valve current and a painted repair may fail quickly.
  1. Re-test, reassemble and verify. Check the repaired trace with the meter again (pin to pad ≈ 0 Ω) and make sure the jumper does not connect to any neighboring pin. Reassemble the module, plug it into the car, reconnect the battery and confirm that both sides follow the temperature settings before refitting the trim. Then reinstall everything in reverse order.

Step 17: re-test the repair and confirm both sides blow the correct temperature

Still one side wrong after the repair? Re-check the jumper with the meter against the correct pin, look for a second damaged trace, and make sure no solder bridges were created between adjacent pins.

VIDEO WALKTHROUGH

Watch the climate control module repair in action:

Video by GarageKing on YouTube.

LINKS

Replacement Climate Control Unit (2003–2008 S-Type):
03–08 Jaguar S-Type Climate Control Heater Switch OEM 2R8H18C612BN

Fast Professional Repair Service:
2003–2008 Jaguar S-Type Climate Control Module Repair Service

Contact Us:
Website: www.germanaudiotech.com
eMail: support@germanaudiotech.net
eBay Store: ebay.com/str/germanaudiotech

Procedure adapted from a repair originally shared by JaguarForums member justinb67, rewritten and illustrated by German Audio Tech. Always follow safe working practices; German Audio Tech is not responsible for damage resulting from DIY repairs.